Wednesday, May 25, 2011
back home and it feels so ... WEIRD?
Monday, May 23, 2011
Leaving and Returning
Day 5 - Sunje Ayiti and Return to Port-au-Prince
Bonswa! (Good afternoon/evening/night/everything after 11am in Creole)
· Visit to a farm: Our first stop with Gabrielle was to visit a large farm Sunje Ayiti was working to develop (side note: it’s right across from the future site of a 10,000-student university the Dominican Republic is building to aid Haiti – super cool!). We saw countless rows of more types of plants than I knew existed, but the most fascinating aspect was the organization’s commitment to putting Haitians to work. Sunje Ayiti employs up to 40 farmers during the harvesting season and at least seven year-round, thereby letting the farmers earn their food and not just receive a handout. Empowerment for the local people was certainly a theme of our time with Sunje Ayiti.
· Goat/chicken farm: Sunje Ayiti also received a grant that provided 100 female goats (and one African boar goat) and 2,000 chickens. The goats were then bred (at alarmingly fast rates, actually) and then given to local Haitian families and communities; the chicken population also ballooned from 2,000 to 10,000 and were also given to local families and communities. Being given the opportunity to care for these animals has been empowering to the Haitians while also providing a direct financial or nutritional benefit.
· Cocoa factory: Arguably the centerpiece of Sunje Ayiti’s work is its cocoa factory, which is in the process of being built through a grant. The business currently operates out of what appears to be a family home; basically, Haitian women make the chocolate and carve it into aesthetically-pleasing shapes and then sell it for $5 each (side note: they’re going to have a Web site soon – great Christmas presents!) I don’t really understand how it works, but if you mix some combination of water, chocolate, milk, and sugar, you should get delicious hot cocoa (we bought lots of it and I’m excited to try it out – luckily there are instructions in the bag!) An already awesome operation out of a small home in Limonade, it was exciting to see Gabrielle already thinking of innovative ways to make the product even better, such as having a sealed bag to make it last longer and a logo of Limonade on the bag itself.
If you made it to the end of my verbose blog, I appreciate it; I typically have a lot to say, and that is only exacerbated by this life-changing experience. Thank you again for all of your love and support, and we look forward to seeing you all Stateside very soon.
Peace and love,
Timmy and the W&M Haiti Compact
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Cap Haitien: Day 2 - the Citadel & Lakou Lakay!
Saturday we woke up at 5:30 AM to get an early start to the day and head out to the historic Citadel. Unfortunately, when we met up with our driver our translator was nowhere to be found, so I found myself using the best of my French speaking abilities to communicate between our driver and his co-pilot and the rest of the team. Up until that point, I had only really used my French to translate passing signs or speak to small children, so, to say the least, I felt a little pressure to be on my “A game.” We ended up spending a good deal of the morning discussing and fixing the situation. Overall, I’m really happy that I was put in a situation that gave me the opportunity to really think about and develop language skills which I had only really ever practiced in a classroom.
After getting everything settled, we drove out to the Citadel and mounted our [quite small] horses that would take us along the five mile trek up the mountain. I’m convinced my horse, accurately named TapTap (*see Catherine’s post), was a thoroughbred Kentucky Derby champion in his past life because my handlers basically had him running me up the steep inclines of the mountain. My fellow team members, I’m sure, had a great time seeing me scream as I bobbled on top of a small speeding horse. Because of TapTap’s speediness, I didn’t get to experience all of the hilarious escapades of some of my fellow Haiti Compact-ers, but the story of Timmy having a panicked breakdown and speaking desperately to Jesus for help as his horse navigated that steep edge of the path cannot be erased from my mind. Also, it must be mentioned that I was the only lucky member of the team to witness Kylee almost fall off of her horse. It was epic.
The trip took a couple of hours, affording us the time to see the wide variety of vegetation the mountain had to offer: bananas, cocoa beans, coffee beans, grapefruit, mangos, coconuts and more. The high stone walls of the Citadel jutted out into the sky as we went up the mountain, providing an interesting historic backdrop to the contemporary evidence of poverty that surrounded the pathway. Small stone, wood and mud houses sat on the hill, the clothes of their inhabitants drying in the heat of the sun while they were splayed across the makeshift cacti fences that surrounded the family’s property. All the while, the Citadel, the signature trademark of Haitian independence and power, hovered on the mountain overhead like a sad reminder of what once was.
We reached the top in a few hours and took a tour through the massive structure when we reached the top. Initiating historical information … NOW: The Citadel was constructed by King Christophe around 1805, which was around the time when he declared himself king of Haiti (even though there was technically a president at the time). His palace, Saint Souci, was constructed on the lower part of the mountain and was, unlike the Citadel, finished in his lifetime. Funny story about King Christophe’s lifetime: He wasn’t the nicest of guys, so naturally he took some issue with people not praying to him as God and decided to take a stop by the church to talk to the priest. After refusing to pray to him before the actual God, the priest backed away from Christophe (probably expecting some sort of retribution), and when the King (not Elvis- King Christophe) moved towards the priest he fell into a hole in the ground and became paralyzed. After some attempts at recovery from his paralysis, including medicines and horse riding, he decided that his life was no longer worth living and shot himself in the chest with his pistol. His brother also famously died from intelligently choosing to smoke his pipe near the gun powder storage. The only found an arm and a leg. Though King Christophe may not have been the best of guys, I do want to make it known that he did do a lot for Haiti as far as protecting and promoting their independence and was an integral part to their early growth as a country.
After making it back down the mountain (me first, of course on the speedy TapTap), we ate “linner” at a local restaurant in the Citadel’s town of Milo named Lakou Lakay. There, were treated to traditional Haitian music and dance greetings and, of course, delicious Haitian food that included plantains, mangos, spiced rice, pineapple, eggplant and creole chicken. It was a great way to relax and end the day, sitting beneath the pineapple trees and reminiscing on our day full of history and tiny horse riding.
Signing off from our home base of Port au Prince, this is Katie with your daily report from the Haiti Compact team J
Cap Haitien: Day One
After a winding trip through the city to see the ICC Cap Haitien headquarters, we were treated to lunch at nice Haitian bakery/deli. Little did we know what culinary surprise awaited us. The vegetarians in the group—aka Wesley and Melody—were served a mound of rice with a wad of iceberg lettuce; Timmy was given a hamburger he deemed questionable; Brian and I were served a mysterious meat we later learned was goat kidney; Katie and Catherine were given turkey sandwiches; and Kylee was never actually served. Good news: we all survived. Bad news: the majority of the group was still hungry when we departed. We took time to digest as we made our way to Joli Trou. The ride was long (and bumpy) but when we arrived, we were greeted warmly by the villagers. The people of Joli Trou have easily been the most hospitable Haitians we have encountered in our time here. A brief introduction was followed by a formal welcome, a little story-telling, and a tour. We were shown the clinic—the prized jewel of Joli Trou—and later, a bit of cultural immersion. Brian, Wesley, and Melody were quick to jump in to the festivities. Their singing and dancing made the group even more popular among the local people.
Feeling tired and ready to check in to our hotel, the team made its way to Le Jardin de L'Ocean, a beautiful villa overlooking the water. We were all surprised to see such lavish sleeping arrangements but no one seemed to complain. The night ended with a trip to a local restaurant where the group was treated to a Haitian meal made with local ingredients.
Malé Malé,
Nick & the Gang
Alive and Well!
Friday, May 20, 2011
Day 3: Grace Children's Hospital, Tent Camps, and Djaloki
May 19, 2011
Hello Friends!
We’re happy to report that all 8 of us are back at Walls Guest House alive and well, despite being a little bit sweaty. We had a fantastic day, so here’s the rundown:
We rose bright and early to go to Grace Children’s Hospital, which serves the local community (adults included), where kicked off our day with a beautiful prayer by Melody and the patients who were in for the day. Robinson was our “guide” for the day, and we had a tour of the hospital, much of which was rebuilt after the quake. Thus far, they are making do with what they have, but they look forward to the construction of a more modern hospital in the near future.
Robinson explained that at the hospital, they do everything from basic checkups, to eye appointments, to TB and HIV testing/treatment. The line in the waiting room was impressively long, seeing that it was 8am. Our team then met up with some of the health care workers at GCH, who answered our many questions. Many people who work for GCH also go out into the community (i.e. tent camps) to do educational programs in order to help curb the spread of diseases, improve nutrition, and demonstrate the importance of family planning. Our team eventually went to a nearby tent camp, where Nick, Katie, and I had the opportunity to present an impromptu demonstration on handwashing/sneezing hygiene. Melody also got her glorious moment of weighing a cute baby, while the rest of us befriended the young children and tried to break the language barrier.
Though the conditions in the tent camp certainly are nothing close to what a person needs and deserves, most of us got the impression that the Haitians are incredibly resilient. They had set up shops within the tent camp and went about their daily lives without much fuss – something I’m not sure most Americans would be able to do given the same situation. Furthermore, though we have very limited vocabulary in Haitian Creole (I learned, “My name is” and “Can I take your picture?”), we did our best to connect with the Haitians. Though we couldn’t verbally express it, it seemed like we were all able to let our guards down a bit after exchanging brief greetings and smiles.
Upon our return to GCH, we had the opportunity to play with babies and young children who were patients. It was incredible to see how much some of the children warmed up to us, since they were extremely shy at the beginning. Several of our team members got to walk around with beautiful babies for a long time, while others had fun dancing, singing, and playing ball with other patients. Even though we realize that this is only one day that we are at GCH (we are probably going back on Monday, too), we hope to bring back stories and pictures that will tell inspiring stories of individuals, rather than a group of nameless people to be pitied. Furthermore, we expect that future Haiti Compact alternative breaks will have more continuity, but right now we are still putting our feelers out to see how we can best utilize our time and energy.
Moving on to this evening – it was completely mind-blowing. A voodoo (or “vodou,” as it should be called) priest came to talk to us. Djaloki is an incredible Haitian who tells it like it is. He held nothing back, but so eloquently described to us the history of Haiti, the struggles and triumphs of the Haitians, and demystified vodou religion. It is impossible to breakdown his entire conversation with us into a single blog post, but I highly encourage you to ask one of us about our experiences with him, as it was truly life-changing. To say that he rips down stereotypes and barriers is an understatement. Djaloki challenged us to think in ways that aren’t so black and white, encouraged us to take a different perspective in order to better understand the position of the Haitian people, and inspired us to continue the work that others have started. We all feel very grateful to have shared the evening with him.
To stop myself from rambling, I leave you all with this one thought that Djaloki had reiterated: Though our history (“our” meaning Westerners) with Haiti has been rather turbulent and oppressive, we still have the power to instantaneously build bridges across cultures and understand and appreciate one another. It is then, that as people, we can begin to help each other as follow members of the same community.
And with that, it is bedtime for us here.
Sending you all love from Haiti,
Wesley + Haiti Compact
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Day 1 in Haiti, a full team, real life Mario Cart
Sorry for the late post, we had internet problems last night. Anyways, we are off to Grace Hospital and the tent camps today!
Today (yesterday) was our first full day in Haiti, and honestly, it still feels surreal. Timmy and Wesley joined us today!! We spent the day at Wings of Hope (WoH), which is an orphanage for 35 children with physical and mental disabilities. It took us a long time to find the place, but when we finally did it was awesome. The original WoH was destroyed in the earthquake, so like all Haitians, they had to make do with what they had. When we got there, we were given a brief tour of the place and told to jump right in. Since it was Flag Day, we had a party!! Like any party, there was music, food, dancing, more dancing, and then even more dancing. There are so many amazing memories from the dance party, it’s hard to describe them all. Here are a few….
This one WoH student enjoyed doing summersaults, attempting the worm, and running back and forth across the dance floor. Another student, danced for the entire four hours, non-stop, and never sat down. Being at WoH, reminded me that there are some things that are universal. Children are children everywhere. They love to interact and have a good time. They laugh when you tickle them, want attention, and can never get enough cookies. Dancing and music are also universal. These two can bring people together across language barriers and across cultures.
WoH also had its challenges. We were told to feed the children. We were given crackers, cookies, popcorn, and juice to feed them. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem, but some of the children had very limited physical mobility. My teammate Nick spent more than an hour feeding this one girl. Breaking the crackers into tiny pieces, putting them in her mouth, holding her mouth closed, and repeating till the entire meal was done. Then there was the juice. We were given juice in plastic cups. It is very challenging to pour juice into the mouths of children. I’m pretty sure about half of the juice ended of the floor or on their shirts. It was amazing to see the work WoH is doing, but also frustrating at the lack of resources they have.
On a different note, Haitian driving….Let me preface this with warning everyone that I’m a terrible back seat driver and a very nervous passenger when I’m driving with people in the States. So, Haiti doesn’t seem to have any rules of the road. There are no speed limits, lines on the road, stop signs, and only one or two stop-and-go lights. Drivers pass each other all the time. Horns are constantly being honked. You are also swerving to avoid goats, dogs, and the people who just stand on the side of the road, barely moving when a car passes 2 inches from them. Motorcycles are everywhere. People run in the streets to jump on the back of the tap-taps (taxis/buses). And there are potholes everywhere. Being from Chicago, I thought I knew and understood potholes. These potholes would have Mayor Daley screaming. My teammate Brian put it real well, if Mario Cart had Haitian roads, it would be the most challenging level that no one could beat.
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
First night in Port au Prince
We had some fun group bonding times in NoVA last night (thank you, MarioKart!) at Brian's lovely home. And bright & squirrely, we headed to DCA this morning.
Our group arrived at 3 pm ish. We navigated Customs, winded through the airport halls and met our driver, Ryan - whom I met briefly last June while visiting ICC headquarters. It was good to see a familiar face!
Traffic in PaP was dramatically easier than our last trip - this time, at least. There is less rubble on the streets, perhaps fewer tents. Otherwise, it feels just like... Haiti. Busy, busy, busy.
On our way to Walls Guest House, in the comfortable passenger seat of his sweet new van, I asked Ryan what he thought our group's best contribution could be while we're here for the week. He thought for a long time.
And then he said that so many groups have come and gone, "gotten a fix" and never returned, that now Haitians can see foreigners as dollar signs. The multitude of "help" has changed the dynamics between people as they interact. We talked about how people don't realize that giving money - and not building relationships or coming back for several trips - has bigger ramifications than that one interaction (transaction?). It sets up a culture, a system, of interacting. We, presumably the helpers, Haitians, presumably those asking for. This was different than it was before the earthquake, he said - then, people were much more focused on building relationships.
It all reminds me of a conversation AIDSTanzania had while I was with their team, with an American man living in Arusha. He said then that people there are just as smart as anywhere - they're going to do what they need to, to get by. They're going to use the system that works. Just like we all do.
Here, it seems that the system that's working is groups coming in and giving, which matters in that moment - but also sets up an economy that is not as relational as it used to be. And as we learned on our trip last June, a charity system also puts local systems out of business. Bad stuff.
A truck in front of us today had these bumper stickers: "Keep your humanitarian tourism off my culture," and "Food Aid doesn't work." Signposts to pay attention to and perhaps to return to this week.
So my wish for our week - or at least one of my wishes? That our trip leads to something much deeper than humanitarian tourism. That we see how so many kinds of aid end up being harmful to dignity and empowerment. That we see who is doing something different - who's creating sustainable models - and learn from them.
Also that we get beyond struggling with the discomfort of these ideas (because they are dissonant; they're hard to swallow) and figure out what they mean for us. How can we do something different?
And finally, that we meet and become friends with people here. Because ultimately it is relationships that motivate us to advocate, to keep at it, to work together toward real positive change.
With that, it's journaling time (in my old-school paper journal). Tomorrow we're off to Wings of Hope, to work with people with disabilities. And our two remaining team members, Wesley and Timmy, will join us! Get here quick, y'all. We miss you already.
Monday, May 16, 2011
almost time!
we leave for haiti tomorrow - so surreal! we've done some team bonding today that consisted of playing mario kart, playing with brian's newfoundlands, and helping brian pack and not fall asleep by playing inspirational and exciting music.
we'll be leaving tomorrow morning from reagan international airport at 8:20, but, unfortunately, this means we'll be leaving brian's house at around 5:30. exciting. or not. then, we'll head to miami. then, to port-au-prince. we'll arrive in port-au-prince tomorrow afternoon, while wesley and timmy (who both serve as resident assistants or head residents) will arrive on wednesday morning.
here's our picture to inspire you to continue to read this blog for our glorious and comedic (as well as hopefully inspiring) updates.
haiti lurve from brian's kitchen.
k & k
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Congrats Graduates!
Rumor has it, we will be the first Branch Out International trip to have undergraduate students, faculty, and alumni!
~Catherine
so soon.
- working in the tent camps doing health education, health kit distribution, and basic health activities
- touring public health initiatives and hospitals in rural northern haiti
- working on the inpatient ward of grace children's hospital
- volunteering with wings of hope - a home for children with disabilities
- touring a PURE Water Haiti factory to better understand the issues with clean and available water